Thursday, October 7, 2010

Big Rigs and Sand Dunes

Two years ago, a lady following the same Adventure Cycling Route we are using was killed on this leg. Having lived through it, I appreciate the danger. There is only one road across the desert in the San Diego area. It was built in 1964 when the Imperial Valley was transformed from desert to productive farmland using water channeled from the Colorado Rover. Needing to get produce to the east as well as the west, they built a two lane road along an old Indian trail that crossed the desert. It is still a 1960’s road: two lanes, narrow, and with no shoulder. It was not built for trucks the size of today’s 18 wheelers, especially as many pull double trailers. And it was certainly not designed with shoulders for cyclists to ride on. I am sure they were confident that no cyclist would be mad enough to attempt to cross this 90 mile stretch of desert and share the road with the big rigs. In fact, as we passed through one of the border patrol checkpoints they laughed at us, they said we were loco. I tend to agree.

Well, we managed to hold on for dear life as rigs from both directions buffeted us with blasts of air as they went by. It was nerve wracking to se them coming like banshees from a distance and await their arrival. In that situation, a cyclist is totally at the mercy of the driver. You pray that they have no particular grudge against cyclists. Some did, not moving an inch as they blew by.

Fortunately, there were times the scenery took our mind off the trucks. Desert is a generic term. This desert was mostly rocks and sand with low green bushes that I suspect turn into tumble weeds. No cacti out here. It was pretty boring to ride thru. The first feature of interest, appearing about 15 miles in, is the Chocolate Mountains to the north. Who says pioneers have no imagination. They are indeed chocolate colored; furthermore as you get closer they look like a series of Hershey’s kisses which have, understandably in this heat, sagged and melted into gooey lumps. The contrast with the sandy desert is striking. A few miles further, the Imperial Dunes came into view. Pure sand, no rocks and no shrubbery. It is worthy of Stars Wars and Lawrence of Arabia. The constant winds, which fortunately are at our back once again, have shaped these dunes into a variegated series of curves. Cornices, bowls, mounds and ridges, all soft and round. An eye pleasing contrast to the sharper rocky features of the desert around.

Holly and Bill did a marvelous job of shepherding us through the desert. They stopped about every twelve miles and met us with fruit, snacks and fresh water. We needed those breaks. We also met our first fellow cyclist in the desert, Marv from Wyoming. Marv, a sixty-three year old retired teacher, is doing the cross country route self contained. This means he carries everything he need on his bikes. It weighs over 300 pounds when he is on it. Marv was struggling through the desert. He was out of water, and going at a snail’s pace. We kept tabs on him all the way across, giving him water and inviting him to join us for lunch. He is already scaling back his plans to go to Florida. Austin Texas is his current destination. Then he’ll complete the trek next year using the SAG wagon approach.

We reached Blythe, our destination, about 3 PM. A hot tub, a pool and shady palm trees awaited us. The desert was behind us, and grilled pork rib a la Bill and Holly awaited us. Life is good.

To see the map of our ride to date, open this link. Try choosing the satellite view to see the sand dunes.
http://www.mapmyride.com/ride/united-states/ca/-san-diego/475128641411270571


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