Needle Eye Pass to New Mexico

To get a feel for today’s ride, let’s refer to the map: Starting in Arizona at Thumb Butte (3200 feet) we started up Black Jack Canyon, climbing steadily. As we gained altitude we could see both Buzzard Roost Canyon and Rattlesnake Canyon to the north, while Lop Ear Creek was to our south. Looming ahead was the Needle Eye Pass over Big Lue Mountain. On the other side was our rest stop, Mule Creek. At 6,295 feet the pass represented a climb of about 3000 feet in 5 miles. We crawled up the mountain, enduring switchback after switchback at grades of 6-10%. I have climbed numerous times before, but Needle Eye Pass holds the prize.

About halfway up the mountain we were astonished to reach a wayside church called the “WWJD Chapel” (What Would Jesus Do). Well, in my opinion, Jesus would stop and ask for water, just like he did in Samaria with the woman at the well. On cue, the property owner, Karen, appeared, turned on the water, and opened the chapel for us to view. Karen is married to a miner. They bought the property a year ago when he found work at the local copper mine. The home came with attached chapel. They have reopened it and are seeking to attract a flock. As they appear to be the only habited dwelling for miles, it will take a miracle, but she is full of faith.

Five miles from the pass was the New Mexico border. What an immediate contrast to Arizona! The backside of the mountain contained pine trees while the cacti and tumbleweed were replaced by prairie grasses and low trees. We are done with the desert at last. Some of the stream beds even had a trickle of water running through them.

Frankly, Carl and I were bushed form the long climb following hard on the heels of yesterday’s century ride, so we struggled over the rolling terrain of New Mexico. The headwind we encountered made it all the more difficult. Like faithful sheep dogs, Holly and Bill were everywhere, waiting at the top of each big climb with water and snacks. But we finally ran out of gas in Buckhorn, at its only establishment, the “Last Chance Liquor Store”. Quite a contrast to the chapel, but maintained by an equally gracious proprietor named Dee, who refreshed us with an alternative type of spirit. I bought the makings for margaritas, which is what we celebrate with whenever we cross a state line.

It was disappointing to not make it to our destination, Silver City; we ended up 30 miles short. The climbs and the headwinds did us in. After Buckhorn, there was another climb over another pass, and we just didn’t have enough left in the tank. Also, it was getting to be late afternoon, and our lodging for the next two nights is the Heart Bar Cabin, which is accessed by a one lane road that should not be negotiated in the dark.

Stopping in Silver City for some grub, we drove to the cabin, arriving just as the sun set. A tough day, but a memorable one.